Mike Dunne’s 2023 Best of Class Tasting Notes

Mike Dunne
Mike Dunne

For each San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, longtime wine writer Mike Dunne tastes and jots notes on best-of-class wines. For the competition in 2023, Mike first tasted best-of-class wines and then trimmed this wide field to the 50 wines he found most exemplary. He searched for wines that not only represent exceptional character, quality and value, but reflect trends within the wine scene. He focused on such popular varietal wines and styles as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but he also sought wines that show the increase in the growing of grapes and the making of wine beyond California, including wines made from hybrid and native grapes in states not identified so much with vitis-vinifera strains.

Given the breadth of the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition – drawing 7,000 entries from throughout the United States, Canada and Mexico – the whittling of even the best-of-class field to 50 prime selections is a daunting task, but Mike is familiar with such challenges. He is the author of the recently published “The Signature Wines of Superior California: 50 Wines that Define the Sierra Foothills, the Delta, Yolo and Lodi,” his deep and personal dive into the evolution of the wine trade in appellations about Sacramento over the past 50 years, a stretch during which he chronicled the area’s viticultural and enological development for several publications and platforms, especially The Sacramento Bee.


Category NameMike Dunne Tasting Notes
Blanc de BlancsGood Harbor VineyardsGood Harbor Vineyards NV Leelanau Peninsula David's Vineyard Blanc de Blanc: Sparkling wines of this much brio, layering and persistence just aren't identified with Michigan, but here it is, all that, as well as a veritable apple orchard of fruit underscored with currents of toast and yeast.
Blanc de NoirsDomaine ChandonDomaine Chandon NV California Blanc de Pinot Noir: French tradition and California fruit merge in this veritable mosaic of pinpoint fruity flavors - strawberry, grapefruit, apple, lime - all set off against a backdrop of minerality and smoke. Amazing persistence in a sparkling wine.
Rose Sparkling (Pinot Noir Varietal)Angels & Cowboys NV California Brut Rosé: At a party, this is the sort of sparkling wine that grabs your attention with a hearty slap on the back more than a hesitant pat on the arm. It introduces itself with a curtain of fine electric beads and an assertively fruity aroma running to strawberries, then takes a step back to say what it has to say with a polite and dry delivery and a wit sharp, concise and pointed. Cowboy at the start, angel in the finish. You want him or her to stick around to continue to entertain you with assurance and vitality.
Other SparklingAlmost Famous Wine Company Methode Champenoise 2019 Monterey Sparkling Gruner Veltliner: Gruner Veltliner customarily is exploited for a dry, lean and quickening white table wine, but here Almost Famous has taken daring advantage of the grape to turn out a novel sparkling wine that can stand proudly alongside the best of France and California. Its filigree shading, fine beads of bubbles, suggestions of peach and limestone, and intricate weaving of fruit, yeast, smoke and minerality add up to a sparkling wine of uncommon sizzle, layering and length.
Sauvignon Blanc/Fume - Up to - $16.99Liquid Light 2021 Washington State Sauvignon Blanc: Increasingly, wineries are using front labels to boast of the real or imagined aesthetics of the wine in the bottle, but not many are as spot-on accurate as the "vibrant, crisp, refreshing" of the Liquid Light label. This zesty and limey Sauvignon Blanc, clearly modeled on the immensely popular New Zealand way with the variety, will be comfortably at home with a platter of Hong Kong fried noodles liberal with vegetables.
Sauvignon Blanc/Fume - $17.00 - $21.99Michael David 2021 Lodi Sauvignon Blanc: Lodi, so long identified with blustery red wines, these days is the epicenter for vintners who understand that its fecund soils and amiable climate - cooler than often perceived - can do well by a wide range of green grapes, including Sauvignon Blanc, here brilliant in both flashing color and citric fruit, with an herbal thread that adds captivating complexity to a finish that lingers exceptionally long for the varietal.
Sauvignon Blanc/Fume - $22.00 - $ 27.99Rock & Clay 2021 Russian River Valley Coffey Lane Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc: In Russian River Valley, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir need to move over to make room for more Sauvignon Blanc, to judge by this especially rich yet vigorous take. A lot is going on here, from tropical fruit in aroma and flavor to its straight-backed posture and crackling finish.
Chardonnay - $11.00 - $13.99Bogle Family Vineyards 2021 California Chardonnay: The Bogle family hits the rare Chardonnay trifecta with its 2021 take on the varietal, seizing suggestions of all three fruit groups generally associated with the wine - tropical, citric, apple. While soft and easy-going, this Chardonnay has the structure to hang with fried chicken and the subtle layering that keeps it interesting even when sipped on its own as aperitif.
Chardonnay - $14.00 - $15.99Highlands 41 2021 Monterey County Chardonnay: For people who want their Chardonnay to represent tropical fruit (papaya especially), silken texture, revitalizing acidity and an overall precise nailing of the variety. With finesse and equilibrium, it speaks to Burgundy, but without the cost.
Chardonnay - $16.00 - $17.99Good Harbor Vineyards 2021 Leelanau Peninsula Unoaked Chardonnay: Just about the strongest statement that can be made that Chardonnay doesn't need to be fermented or aged in oak barrels to provide astonishment and delight. Though the wine is dry, sweetly aggressive tropical fruit dominates the aroma and flavor, providing a richness that echoes through the finish without growing tiresome, remaining vital until the last drop. Don't shy from pairing this Chardonnay with a bowl of Cuban black beans with plantains, jalapeno chile pepper, avocado and red onion. Even without the wood, it has the mettle to stand up to all that.
Chardonnay - $20.00 - $22.99Rodney StrongRodney Strong 2019 Chalk Hill Chardonnay: Everything about this Rodney Strong Chardonnay speaks to the equilibrium, precision and strength of Rodney Strong himself, a professional dancer in New York and Paris who had studied under George Balanchine and Martha Graham before starting to plant vines at Chalk Hill and establishing his eponymous winery in Sonoma County in the 1960s. In its tropical fruit, supple spine, taunting spice and bracing acidity, this Rodney Strong Chardonnay can be savored all on its own until long after sunset, or paired with anything from Hong Kong fried noodles to lemongrass chicken.
Chardonnay - $36.00 - $38.99Jeff Runquist 2021 Napa Valley Los Carneros Sisters Vineyard Chardonnay: Jeff Runquist, widely recognized for monumental red wines generous with oak, here takes a swing at Chardonnay and knocks it all the way across San Pablo and San Francisco bays to Oracle Park, where if it were available at concession stands would delight baseball fans who like a glass of wine with their hot dogs, provided the dog is light on condiments. This is pure Chardonnay, sleek and acid-driven, which weaves in a thread of refreshing lime alongside its tropical fruit.
Chardonnay - $46.00 and OverAuteur Auteur 2021 Russian River Valley Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay: Among California appellations to visit, Russian River Valley is one of the funner and more reliable for consistently well-conceived and executed wines. This Auteur is just one of the more recent examples of fine wine to emerge from that atmosphere. The fruit is plenty ripe, yet jaunty with freshness and definition. The oak is well integrated, the acidity supportive enough to call for a bottle when buttermilk grits with ham and shrimp are being ordered off the menu.
Viognier - $30.00 & OverEnglish Newsom Cellars 2021 Texas High Plains Reserve Viognier: One of the stories to emerge at the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition has been the realization that Viognier can adapt to a widely diverse range of terroirs across the United States, including Texas. Thus, the subtle command of the grape's telltale honeysuckle and peach charm in the 2021 English Newsom. It's a dry, lean, respectfully demanding take on the varietal, ideal if on the table alongside a refined curried tofu.
Pinot Gris/Grigio - Up to - $14.99Rock Point 2021 Oregon Pinot Gris: In the three classes of Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris at the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Oregon wines took top honors in two, verification of what Oregon vintners long have known: The state has the terrain and climate to do exceptionally well by the variety, reinforced by the refreshing peachiness, vital acidity and abiding finish of this extraordinary bargain.
Pinot Gris/Grigio - $20.00 and OverSchultz Glory Oaks 2021 Applegate Valley Steelhead Run Vineyard "Grace" Pinot Gris: The grapes may be from a "salmon safe" vineyard, but no salmon is safe if someone suggests opening a bottle of this unusually husky yet rhythmic Pinot Gris at dinner. But, to keep the salmon safe it also would work splendidly with swordfish, crayfish, scallops and shrimp.
SemillonAbove the Curve Vineyard 2021 Yakima Valley Old Vine Semillon: The back label suggests that this finely layered Semillon be served with shellfish. Bingo! No matter the presentation, from raw oysters even with a biting mignonette to fried shrimp tacos, this Semillon has the nerve, verve, gorgeous sunny fruit and driving acidity to hold its own.
AlbarinoWine Without Borders 2022 San Francisco Bay Albarino: When fish tacos are on the menu - or for that matter, fresh cracked crab - grab a bottle of this Albarino, startling for its sweet fruit, acute acidity, sprinkling of spice and a finish that will resonate long after the last taco has been consumed.
Grenache BlancDouble Bond 2021 Ballard Canyon Grenache Blanc: Grenache Blanc, especially this hefty, agile and finely finessed interpretation, is the Brock Purdy of white wines - young, coming out of nowhere, and now drawing attention for its surprising versatility, approachability, grace and vigorous disposition. Savor this peachy moment.
Pinot BlancCinquain Cellars 2021 Monterey Pinot Blanc: Pinot Blanc always seems on the verge of joining in standing and popularity high-profile California white wines like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but it hasn't yet gotten there. This exquisitely balanced and vital interpretation, however, should at least generate buzz for its suggestions of pineapple and pear and its tap-dancing vitality, breezing across the palate with dexterity and poetic swing.
Gruner VeltlinerReustle Prayer Rock Vineyards 2021 Umpqua Valley Green Lizard Gruner Veltliner: Reustle Prayer Rock is the first winery to plant and release Gruner Veltliner in the United States (the grape is most closely identifed with Austria). While other growers and winemakers have followed its lead, Reustle Prayer Rock still pretty much owns the field when it comes to takes that are dry, lean, pleasingly if delicately fruity, and accented with several dashes of the white pepper for which the variety is celebrated. It is just what you want to pour with a lightly seasoned cauliflower salad.
VerdelhoLewis Grace 2022 Alta Mesa Verdelho: You know how one of those slight gymnasts can bolt down the runway, fly from the springboard and twist and twist and twist over the vault before landing on the mat solid and precise? This Verdelho is the wine equivalent, deceptive in its filigree color, then popping across the palate with zest and assurance, delighting the diner digging into anything from french fries to falafel.
Gewurztraminer - Up to - $19.99Husch 2021 Anderson Valley Dry Gewurztraminer: Blithe and focused, Husch's dry Gewurztraminer vintage after vintage is the archetype for the variety in the United States, grasping and conveying confidently the grape's telltale floral aroma, pronounced fruit and teasing spice. Bring on the lightly seasoned halibut or cod, or tofu.
Riesling - Medium Dry - 1.0 - 2.0 RSGreen Darner 2019 Yakima Valley Riesling: Riesling, so long identified with Germany in Europe and New York's Finger Lakes district in the United States, occasionally can flash its authority and charm when grown elsewhere. Yakima Valley in Washington state is one of those place, yielding here a take on the variety rewarding for its loping peachy fruit, suggestion of petrol, notes of spice and astonishing length.
White Native American/HybridSovereign Sovereign Estate 2021 Minnesota Blue La Crescent: La Crescent is a green hybrid grape developed at the University of Minnesota two decades ago to show that the state's culinary scene could become recognized for something other than cheese curds. Actually, the grape was developed to show that fine wine could be made in Minnesota, despite its frigid weather, and "Blue La Crescent" is proof enough, given its abidingly fresh fruit, balanced sweetness and ticklish spice.
White Blends - Up to - $21.99Cellardoor Cellardoor Winery 2021 The Buoy American White Wine: "The Buoy" is the perfect proprietary name for this imaginative blend of Chenin Blanc and Semillon. Like a buoy, the wine is bright, bobbing and helpful, especially if it is put on the table to accompany a pasta, from a reserved primavera to a sassy puttanesca.
White Blends - $28.00 and OverPennyroyal FarmPennyroyal Farm 2021 Anderson Valley Pinotrio: Mendocino County's Anderson Valley, long home to iconoclastic and artful souls, is the logical setting for a wine of exceptional boldness and originality. This is a California wine that delivers European naturalness and assertion in its freshness, transparency and subtle complication. A blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, it confidently can take its place on a deck alongside nothing more busy than almond crackers spread with a creamy cheese, though it also possesses the structure and acid to stand up to the likes of chilled soba noodles and shrimp, though it would be best to hold off on the Sriracha.
Dry Rose (One varietal) - RS .1 - .299Navarro Navarro Vineyards 2022 Mendocino Rosé of Sangiovese: For this exceptionally animated and uplifting pink wine the government warning on the side of the label should be amended to warn consumers that once they start sipping its strawberry/raspberry/cherry fruit they may not be able to stop until the very last drop is gone. From its brilliant Victoria's Secret pink to its crackling acidity, this is one invigorating and refreshing rosé.
Dry/Semi-Sweet Rose (One varietal) - RS >1.00 and moreSonoma-Cutrer 2022 Russian River Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir: Don't be misled by the faint pink color and the slim structure, this is the Tyler Rogers of blush wines, mimicking his deceiving submarine pitches with a brisk delivery of fresh berry fruit, a flourish of unanticipated spice and provocative acidity.
Pinot Noir - $28.00 - $31.99Dusk to Dawn 2021 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir: The Sonoma Coast is rugged - rocky, wind swept, dynamic in its flora and fauna - all of which is conveyed in this dramatic Pinot Noir, suggestive of spiced cherries, the spice mostly white pepper.
Pinot Noir - $32.00 - $35.99J. Lohr 2020 Arroyo Seco Fog's Reach Pinot Noir: Fog may have reached the Monterey County vineyard responsible for this wine but it in no way obscured the essence of Pinot Noir fruit, here richly expansive, underscored with oak, shored up with enough tannin to be reinforcing but not obfuscating.
Pinot Noir - $48.00 - $50.99Soquel Vineyards 2021 Santa Cruz Mountains Pleasant Valley Farms Pinot Noir: Wine historian and philosopher Patrick McGovern has written about archaeologists who have recovered ancient amphorae labeled as “wine for first-class celebrations,” “wine for tax collection day,” “wine for dancing” and so on, an early indication of the guidance and hope expressed by today's wine labels. In that vein, therefore, the freshness, electricity, spice and sweetly fruity assurance of this strapping Pinot Noir should bear a label urging that it be "wine for sharing after scaling an especially challenging summit."
Zinfandel - $17.00 - $22.99Shed HornShed Horn Cellars 2019 Lake County Zinfandel: With first sniff, you can just visualize the berries that went into this wine warming themselves in the high-altitude sun overlooking Clear Lake. Whether the vineyard actually can be seen from the lake is beside the point, which is that this is a Zinfandel that presents itself so confident in its raspberry fruit that it doesn't need to be hyped with high alcohol or abundant oak. It is Zinfandel disarming in its direct charm.
Zinfandel - $32.00 - $34.99Carol SheltonCarol Shelton Wines 2020 Alexander Valley Wallstrum Vineyard "Wally Zin" Zinfandel: Any Zinfandel bearing such a relaxed and welcoming imprimateur like "Wally Zin" should be readily approachable, embracing with characteristic berry fruit, abidingly sunny in disposition and ready to accommodate guests with a natural bonhomie, and this upright release by longtime Zinfandel specialist Carol Shelton does all that.
Zinfandel - $35.00 - $38.99Di AireDi Arie 2018 Shenandoah Valley Southern Exposure Zinfandel: Contrary to the view that California's Sierra Foothills produce only Zinfandels of mass and bravado, this Southern Exposure out of El Dorado County is stately and tightly woven, delivering bright suggestions of raspberries against a savory backdrop, notable in large part for its insinuation of black pepper. The color is light and bright, the structure reinforcing without intruding on the wine's mouth-watering premise, and the oak more welcome shadow than diverting spotlight.
NebbioloSunce Winery & Vineyard 2018 Clarksburg Heringer Vineyard Nebbiolo: Nebbiolo long has challenged and thwarted California vintners, too often coming off blunt, awkward and hard. Maybe it's most at home at Clarksburg in the Sacramento/San Joaquin River Delta, which produced this lightly colored, sleek and racy interpretation. The fruit is all dark berries with a trace of cola and a whiff of ember, adding up to a Nebbiolo both keen and mouth watering.
MontepulcianoSecret RavineSecret Ravine 2020 Placer County Montepulciano: Who knew that the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition would attract 20 Montepulcianos? Who knew that that many even were being made in North America? When judges of the Montepulciano convened for the day, the best of the batch was this strapping, concentrated and savory release, no doubt winning them over with its plush dark fruit and thread of char. Note that the tannins are chewy, and will benefit by a few years of cellaring.
Alicante BouschetMilliaireMilliaire 2020 Calaveras County "Alley Cat" Alicante Bouschet: Sock it away in the cellar for a few more years, though already this is one entertaining wine, bringing movement, tension and individuality to a grape generally considered an afterthought, more filler than worthy of standing on its own. This Alicante Bouschet, however, is plenty exciting on its own, from its suggestions of brittle papyrus in aroma through its sturdy structure to a finish resonating with sweet berry fruit and peppery spice.
Petite Sirah - $46.00 and OverAratas Aratás 2017 Amador County Shake Ridge Ranch Petite Sirah: In appearance, this Aratás Petite Sirah captures the variety's customary inky purple, but on the palate the wine is an unusually serene take on the variety, its berry/cherry fruit flamboyant but cheery, its thread of licorice atypical but alluring, its tannins reserved and its oak finely integrated.
Merlot - $23.00 - $26.99Alexander Valley Vineyards 2020 Alexander Valley Merlot: The rolling Alexander Valley long has been recognized for red wines of uncommon precision, personality and poise, notable for their accurate representation of variety and their ready accessibility. This Merlot springs from that tradition, its dry plummy fruit focused and zesty, its body sleek, its texture silken.
Cab Sauv - $55.00 - $59.99V. Sattui Winery 2019 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: New kids on the block tend to draw attention, but it's the longtime neighbors who can be relied upon for equilibrium, character and trust, and the same could be said for wine as well as people. The most convincing evidence: This dry, medium-bodied, gracefully fruity Cabernet Sauvignon from the old-timey house of V. Satturi, as complete a take on the variety as anyone is likely to find nowadays.
Cab Sauv - $65.00 - $75.99Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Vineyard 2019 Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: A country lane lined with olive trees, a cherry orchard on one side and a berry patch on the other. That's the watercolor composed by this refined and mannerly Cabernet Sauvignon, as promising as sunrise, as satisfying as sunset. It won't end the debate on whether Dry Creek Valley is better suited for Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel, but it will enliven the discussion.
Cab Sauv - $100.00 and OverMi Sueño 2019 Mount Veeder Lynne's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon: Anyone who wants to get a grip on why Napa Valley is so highly regarded for Cabernet Sauvignon will get all the instruction they need in this Mi Sueño. It is a stunning represenative of the region's concentrated, layered and persistent way with Cabernet Sauvignon, especially when the vines have some elevation. There are cherries here, along with eucalyptus, commanding tannins and well-integrated oak. A Saturday-night wine, for sure, especially if a 50th wedding anniversary is being celebrated.
CarmenereBarrister 2018 Wahluke Slope Carménère: A taser of a Carménère, jolting tastebuds into surrender with its forthright berries and mint, barbed spice, silken texture and sprightly acidity. Bring on the prime rib!
CharbonoPear ValleyPear Valley 2020 Paso Robles Pear Valley Vineyard Charbono: Picture a pipe-smoking farmer strolling into his equipment shed on a sunny Saturday morning to do some upkeep on a faithful old tractor. That's the image evoked by the tobacco, smoke, bright berry fruit, stimulating acidity and metal-reinforced spine of this finely tuned Charbono. The variety is most closely identified with France and Argentina, but as seen here is quite capable of strutting its muscle and adroitness in California.
Red Blend: Merlot leading blend - Up to - $34.99Fidelity 2021 Alexander Valley Red Wine: Sonoma County's Alexander Valley is synonymous with Cabernet Sauvignon that realizes the full and rare expression of decorum and drama. Now, the same standard can be applied to Merlot, based on this Merlot-based blend, which comes off both strapping and contemplative, repeatedly drawing the palate back for another sip of its gorgeous fruit, reliant yet yielding build, and lingering finish.
Red Blend: Barbera leading blendSunce 2019 Clarksburg Heringer Vineyards Zemlja's Blend: The Heringer family's gamble on respected but little cultivated grape varieties in the Sacramento/San Joaquin River Delta turns up a winner in the powerful aroma, polished fruit and agile build of this inspired blend of 60 percent Barbera and 40 percent Nebbiolo, two immigrants clearly as comfortable at home in California as they are in their native Italy.
Red CansMaker Wine Company 2019 Paso Robles Zinfandel: This Maker Zinfandel departs from the usual style of wine found in cans - white, light, simple, a little sweet. Rather, the Maker Zinfandel is deeply colored, muscular and dry, with briary and berry flavors, chewy tannins and warm alcohol.
Red Dessert - RS >3.5Quady Quady Winery 2021 California Black Muscat Elysium: A staple of California's historic and foundational dessert-wine scene, Elysium has been made by the Central Valley's Quady family for four decades. Elysium's standing as a dessert wine assuring "eternal bliss" was reinforced when the 2021 version was selected best-of-class at the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. This Elysium is refreshingly sweet, peppery with spice and conveys an overall bouncy joviality. It's the kind of rare wine that happily can be paired with chocolate, fruity custards and blue-veined cheeses.
Varietal CiderPortland Cider Company NV McIntosh Cider: The joy of this cider is its authentic representation of McIntosh apples and its balance of sweetness and tartness. Its floral overtones and snappy acidity add up to one refreshing cider, not at all tiring even after an entire 19.2-ounce can is consumed, one "proper English pint."

Learn more about Professional Wine Judge Mike Dunne.

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